The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

The day began qute early on Friday morning. We met our driver at 5.30am who took us to join up with the other 3 members of our group for the 4 day trek across the Andes to Machu Picchu. The 3 lads from Scotland - Grant, Sean and Haaki - had stayed the night before with a local farmer in the outskirts of Cusco. We arrived there to pick them up. But before we headed off to begin the hike, we had breakfast in the farmer´s house. I have to say, it was different - fun but diferent. The farmers here are very poor. Their produce doesn´t bring much profit. They live a very simple life, and as the farmer, Freddie, explained they don´t have any stress in their lives. n some ways, that sounds quite appealing. But I don´t think I could give up my creature comforts for adbe walls and thatched rooves.

The house had no electricity so they used cow and donkey dung as fuel for the fire - there are practically no forests at this altitude so wood s hard to come by. The kitchen was dark but warm. Living in the kitchen, and this completely true, are 33 guinea pigs. They live under the seats and in holes created around the ktchen. It´s a little odd at frst when you´re eating breakfast to find half a dozen guinea pigs running under your feet, fighting over the lettuce which was thrown on the floor for them. And ´m sure they are blissfully unaware that at the next special occasion, the fatest one will be tossed into a boiling pot for a gorgeous supper.

Upon leaving the house, we started our journey to km 82 of the trail, where we were to begin our trek. Loaded with two changes of clothes, loads of water and two trekking poles each, we started the 44km hike through the Andes. Our guide for the trek was a 28 year old Quechua guy called Jose. He had a great sense of humour, and in fact made a joke at every opportunity. It was very interesting to learn about the native Quechua people and how their culture has evolved since the fall of the Inca empire. What I didn´t know was, the Incas were not a race themselves, the Inca was the high priest or leader if you will of the Quechua people. A short lived but nonetheless fascinating culture.

Day 1 was fairly OK. Not too much uphill- The path went up and down qute regularly - what our uide referred to as Inca Flat. Not being what would call fit, I struggled a bt on the first day. This kinda worried me because practically everyone I had spoken to on the subject had warned me about Day 2, and how t was a killer. Well, on Day 2, I began ery quickly to understand what they were talking about. It was nothing short of torture. We climbed from 3,300 meters to a breath taking 4,201 meters, where were were to clear ´Dead Womans Pass´. The first 4 and a half hours that morning were up hill - and mean steep up hill, wth giant steps whch took a piece of your soul each time you climbed up on. Poor Tom hadn´t ully recovered from his recent bout of illness so he felt the altitude more than the rest of us, but he perseviered. When we reached the top, I had such an overwhelming sense of achievment, it was incredible. The torture was worth it for what we had accomplished.

The next hour and a half was spent trotting down the other side of the pass. You may think the jorney down would be easy but in fact it was rather difficult. Again there were so many steps. You really feel the pressure on your shins and ankles. Reaching the campsite that evening was like a dream come true. Never have I ever been so happy to go to sleep.

We were promised an easier day on the 3rd day, even though we would be hiking for 7 hours. It certainly wasn´t as tryng as Day 2 but man it was tough. Inca Flats and uphill walks for the whole day. Then a long long 2 and half hours down hill to the next campsite. We saw so many amazing views. Day 3 we were in the cloud forest which is basically a rain forest, only it´s up so high the clouds float through it. In the dry season, the views can be out of this worlds, unfortunately for us the cloud cover was quite heay so all we could see around us for much of the day was white. When we descended to the mountain forest we were spoiled with the most amazing views. When you are in so much pain and out of breath, seeing what we saw really makes it all worthwhile.

Upon reaching the 3rd campsite, we quickly found the bar and downed several bottles of the local brew - best tasting beer ever! What followed was a ceremony for our porters. We had 10 porters who carried our tents and all the food and cooking utensils. The guys are fantastic. They literally run the trail ahead of you carrying up to 25kg each. It´s unbelieable to see them doing it. We were gaspin for breath in some parts of the trek with only a few kgs on our backs - these guys were legging it up steps, around corners, along cliff edges, no problem to them. They are treated ery badly by many agencies but ours made an issue of showing how they live (the breakfast in the farm house for eg) and were very good about treating them well. So the ceremony was a way of showing our gratitude to them for looking after us and for apprecating the hard jobs they have.

Today, the 4th day, we were up at 4am and began and hour and a half trek to Machu Picchu. We flew along the track, I guess we were so anxious to see the city, and also we seemed to have improved our fitness levels quite a lot, so it was no problem for us. Arriving at the Sun Gate and seeing Machu Picchu for the first time was emotional. We put so much effort into the trek, we suffered some horrible terrain but endured. This was just the most moving reward.

Physically, the trek was the most demanding, the most difficult thing I have ever done in my life. But by god t was the most worthwhile as well.

I sit now in Aguacalietes, a small town near Machu Picchu waiting for our train back to Cusco. I am in pain, everywhere, but I know I will always remember this experience as being the most rewarding of my life.