La Paz & Lake Titicaca

With everything that has been happening in Bolivia lately, we didn´t really know what to expect when we got to La Paz. The region is very pro-Evo Morales so we knew there wasn´t going to be any trouble as there are very few supporters of the oppostion there. We did experience a few peaceful demonstrations though. There were crowds of people chanting and marching, carefully being watched by the riot police. Firecrakers were being let off all over the place. If you didn´t know what was going on, you might have thought the place was under attack! But really it was all very civilised.

I was sorry to say goodbye to Bolivia. It´s a beautiful country with a colourful past, and it´s still trying to find its way, but the people are so incredibly friendly. The mix of indigenous people and the Spanish settlers is really interesting. The blend so well, so well in fact that the Catholic church has incorporated many of the indigenous traditions. What I found really cool was while strolling through the markets, you can see many of the stall owners have offerings laid out for the gods. I really wish I had more time here, but I am definitely going to come back.

The next phase of our journey was a transfer from La Paz to the shores of the mysterious Lake Titicaca. We were up at 5.45 on Tuesday and picked up by the tour agency who was taking us into Peru. We were introduced to our guide for the trip - Pepe. At first I thought he might be 26 or 27, but as the day progressed, he seemed to age more and more - ironic really since he washed his face in a so called ´fountain of youth´on Sun Island but the water seemed to have the opposite affect!

When we reached the shore, we boarded a catamaran and started across the lake. The history of the lake is quite fascinating. Millions of years ago, an ocean, which spanned as far as the salt flats, began to dry up. Lake Titicaca is all that remains of that once vast ocean. It spans about 8,000 sqare km. Worringly, the level of the lake has decreased in the last number of years. Experts believe the lake will be completely dried up in as little as 15 years. How incredible is that?! What´s worse is that La Paz relies on the lake for water supply, so when the lake is gone, there is going to be a huge problem in locating a new water source.

We spent a number of hours on the catamaran and reached Sun Island - the largest island on the lake, and supposed birthplace of the Inca Empire. We first had a ride on a recreation of an old sea shiop made of reeds - can´t remember the name of it! - then toured the island for a few hours. We were able to partake in a traditional Aymaran ceremony where a shamen said a prayer, made an offering to the gods and then blessed us with holy water. Funny how you always feel somewhat clensed after being blessed - even if the shamen was an actor employed by our tour agency! (how cinical!) The catamaran then brought us to Copacabana near the Bolivian/Peruvian border. A bus brought us across the border into Peru and then onto Puno.

While I am seriously looking forward to exploring Peru and the Inca Trail, I really am going to miss Bolivia. So far, it has been the gem of the trip for me.